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Writer's pictureJanine

Thailand - Koh Mook 2

I would like to tell you a little more about Koh Mook, its inhabitants, and the things we did there.


On Koh Mook, there is a very famous cave called Emerald Cave. The roof of the cave collapsed long ago, adding even more fascination to this place. It can only be reached by boat or kayak as it is located on a steep cliff. Upon arrival at the entrance, you enter a dark tunnel, and then it's a 60-meter swim through the deepest darkness. We opted for a guided tour, and fortunately, our guide had a waterproof flashlight.




At the cave entrance, the water glowed in a stunning turquoise color. The rocks only reach up to the water's surface, and behind them, the sun shines, making the water glow. In the photo, those are Jus and Sam, the two who were steering the longtail boat. Both could barely speak English, but it was really fun to talk to them.


Oh, names! People here introduce themselves with their nicknames, which they usually receive from their parents at birth. I would describe Thais as pragmatically inclined when it comes to choosing nicknames. Frequently, they simply use everyday objects. 'Gai', the name of our hostess, means 'chicken'. 'Jus' means 'stop'. 'Sam' means 'three', indicating that he is the third child.


Another day, we walked through Koh Mook's jungle. There's a great viewpoint up here. There used to be a small campground and a restaurant, but now the buildings are in disrepair.


By the way, there are currently quite a few abandoned buildings here on the islands. Abandoned buildings, abandoned restaurants, and abandoned resorts. Why? COVID-19! With the coronavirus pandemic, tourists from the West stayed away. While there was more domestic tourism, it was not as extensive as before. Tourism accounted for about one-fifth of the country's economy before COVID-19, so the pandemic hit Thailand and its people hard. Until the end of March 2023, travelers will even be granted a visa-free stay of 45 days instead of the usual 30 days upon entry into Thailand. This is a measure by the government to support the affected population and revitalize tourism.


Gai said that many locals are waiting out this season and seeing if tourism becomes profitable again. Then they plan to use the six months until the next season in autumn 2023 to rebuild the abandoned buildings and construct new ones.



And now, a quick note about how different life is here on Koh Mook. The locals are happy and friendly, and it's evident that their kindness comes from the heart. Despite having little sleep at times, they remain content and joyful. Our host, Gai, exemplifies this with her early morning routines and dedication to her restaurant, which is open seven days a week. Since the start of the season in September, she has only closed the restaurant for one day.


It's fascinating to see how they live differently, and it's something Karli and I will truly miss. Koh Mook may not be as secret a gem as it once was, with around 20 to 30 restaurants now on the island, but it's still a less touristy destination compared to others we've visited. The locals have made a lasting impression on us, as we can feel that their hospitality is genuine and not just a facade.


I also find it remarkable how content they are despite their busy schedules and limited rest. For instance, Gai wakes up at 5:30 AM every morning to prepare the restaurant and goes to bed around 11 or 12 PM. Although the restaurant may be quiet at times with no guests, she doesn't close it for a midday rest. The restaurant remains open every day, and Gai is always there to serve customers.


The way of life here is vastly different from what we're used to, and it's a joy to see how happy the people are.



📷 You can find many more great pictures in the photo album of Koh Mook (shared photo album for both posts about Koh Mook).


Here on Koh Mook, there are also many stray dogs and cats. Before the pandemic, a veterinarian regularly came to spay and neuter them. With COVID-19, the number of animals has increased significantly. The locals here take good care of them, and the dogs and cats are very friendly and relaxed.


The dogs are quite amusing. Sometimes they seem to want an owner and will accompany you for an hour or two, keeping a safe distance. One day, we were followed by a dog on our way to the beach. When we reached the beach, he also lay down. At first, he was about two meters away, but gradually, he got closer until he was right in front of Karli's feet.




Many locals are fishermen (outside the tourist season). On Koh Mook, you can see many rectangular poles with fishing nets attached. These are traps for catching squid, if I understood correctly. There is a small opening on one side where they enter, but once inside, they can't find their way out.



There's just too much to tell about Koh Mook. One last thing, and then we'll call it a day. The Irish woman with the diving school I mentioned earlier, her husband grew up here on Koh Mook.

For everyone, it's clear to see where the land ends and the sea begins. As observers, we assume that it has always been this way. However, in reality, the boundary between the sea and land has not been in its current position for very long. One thing I always forget is that the sea level is rising due to climate change. When her husband was still a child, there were four more rows of buildings that are no longer there today. Climate change took them away.


The latest victim...



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