Report from 17 November to 29 November 2023
From: Philippines
Port Barto
Everyone travels for themselves.
El Nido
Janine
As I'm writing this, we're travelling on a local bus to the next town on Palawan: Port Barton. We're hurtling through the countryside at a crazy 75 km/h with the windows open. Every bend throws me in a different direction. Earlier, on the way to the bus station, we had some great Filipinos who looked after us and made sure that we took the right route to the bus station and that we got on the right bus at the bus station. I am so grateful for the people here, for the experiences, for the knowledge. I'm sitting on the local bus on the way to the next town. The landscape rushes past me. I see tiny huts, oxen, goats, lush green landscapes. Children playing. . I stick my head out of the window and let the wind blow around my ears. We have been in the country officially for less than a week and it is already deeply rooted in my heart. I am happy. A tear of joy steals down my cheek.
Port Barton
When we arrive in Port Barton, Karli and I split up. Travelling together as a couple is a very intense time. You spend 24 hours a day, 7 days a week together. What's more, there are no routines when travelling, unlike in everyday life. Instead, there are hundreds of new decisions that you have to make together every day. Over the past few months, this has occasionally led to phases where we've argued a lot. We've now found a new solution to this and sometimes we simply spend a few days without each other so that we can each do exactly what we feel like doing without having to talk to each other. And that's how it will be for the next 10 days. This means that each of us has chosen our own accommodation in the town of Port Barton. Over the next few days, we will continue travelling independently and both discover more of the island of Palawan.
I had imagined this time in the brightest and most beautiful colours and was incredibly looking forward to it: enjoying great food, getting to know people, enjoying cocktails on the beach. Unfortunately, things turned out very differently than I had imagined. Less than 24 steps later, after the tears of joy on the bus, I'm crying again - but this time because I'm sad. I'm not feeling well. My fructose intolerance intervenes. Those of you who also have a fructose intolerance may be familiar with this: the body suddenly reacts to foods that are normally tolerated. That 1000 has physical problems and the body virtually collapses. Headaches, acidity in the throat, gum inflammation, athlete's foot, I just feel really bad, sometimes I start crying for small reasons or because of small things a doomsday mood spreads in my head.
The only thing that helps is to go on a fasting phase, which means following a certain diet for 2 weeks. Well, that's what I have to do now. That means no alcohol, no tasty food. It's really difficult to stick to all these food rules during the grace period if you don't have your own kitchen. Every time I have to talk to the waiters in detail to find out what's in the food. Most of the time it works, but sometimes I end up with a meal that I'm not allowed to eat. I'm sad and depressed. I'm very preoccupied with myself and have no energy to get to know other travellers. Apart from the fact that, from my perspective, they all just go partying. And I can't join in because I'm not allowed to drink alcohol during the parental leave phase. I had imagined it all differently. .
But that's how I actually get into conversation with many of the residents of Port Barton: my hostel owners, waitresses, restaurant owners, even with one or two tour operators who always get on your nerves at the stand. If you're interested, I'll tell you a bit about my insights into people's lives here in next week's post.
Karli
Port Barton is quite a small place and there's not really much to do. Just what I'm looking for.
At the beginning, I stay on my own and enjoy the time.
I sleep as long or as short as I want and go for long walks on the beach or between the small houses.
Over a coffee in the hostel, I strike up a conversation with a group of Germans and Dutch people.
From then on, I occasionally travelled with them.
One evening we just want to have a quick bite to eat and try out a new place, the Happy Bar.
We order a beer with our meal and get a large glass of rum and coke for free. And we are told that we can help ourselves to the drinks dispenser at any time. This is filled with rum and pineapple juice, with a sign above it saying that you can take as much as you want...
The evening doesn't stop at dinner, and it gets long.
On the way home, we buy a quick beer at the chemist and make ourselves comfortable in the hostel.
After a few days, however, I set off again. I want to go on to El Nido. It's a very touristy place, and I want to spend a day or two there, although I'm not very interested in the tourist tours. Then I want to visit some of the rural areas in the surrounding countryside.
There are different providers and different buses I could take, but my aim is not to spend any money. I will take the stairs.
After a leisurely breakfast, I buy a few provisions that I can eat on the way or on the spot and set off in a good mood.
First of all, I get out of the city, so I start walking. I hadn't thought about the fact that once you get out of the city, it can only go uphill. And because I don't want to stand on the road forever, I run and keep my thumb out when a car comes along. But it takes a while. So I drag my ~20kg of luggage uphill, sometimes steeply, and most of the time in the sun, for 3km. But then a small lorry arrives. He pulled up, and in town he gestures for me to jump on the back of the lorry.
I sit in the dust and enjoy the view as we drive along the bumpy road.
In Roxas, my first intermediate destination, I jumped off the loading area. Afterwards I took a look at a pah side street and briefly put my feet through the water. Here I was immediately asked by a family if I would like to spend the night with them. They were just waiting for a boat to take them, as they live on the small island on the horizon.
That sounds tempting but I decline, I would like to go further.
After a meal, I make my way out of the city. A light rain cools me down.
There was still some sand in my sandals from the short walk in the water. I thought it would travel out over time.
After a while I thought, well, maybe there is a pale....
Half an hour later, I see blood running out of my shoe from my little toe...
Then probably no bubble...
All right, I should do something...
The water I walked through was unfortunately not very clean. That didn't bother me too much, but now that I have a wound I'm worried it might get infected.
I stop at a favourable spot and wave at a pah van. They are comfortable and air-conditioned. If I get in, they'll definitely want money, but with the rain starting, not a bad idea.
To my surprise, there are only locals in it. That gives me hope that it won't be too expensive.
But I covered 20 kilometres while I treated my toe with antiseptic and bandaged it a bit to prevent further damage.
At the equivalent of €4.16, the van was also cheap, and not a bad price for 70 kilometres. I missed my target of paying nothing for the journey, but it was far less than everyone else.
It's just before 5, but I'm still trying to cover the last 60 kilometres to El Nido on the stairs.
But it's also getting darker soon, which could be a problem. I don't have a tent with me, but I'm confident that I'll find something. If in doubt, I'll stop a van again. I also have the telephone number of a provider from whom a van should be leaving soon and driving past me in about 3 hours. If I don't see a good solution in 2 hours, I call them and tell them that the van should take me.
A nice family drove past me on their tricycle and asked what I was doing here and where I was going. When I said El Nido, they got big eyes and said that it was far too far. But I explained to them that I would find a lift. I was still wondering whether I should get in... But with all the shopping, a large gas cylinder and my 4-year-old daughter, I didn't want to squeeze in with my big rucksack.
After they continued, it took about 10, then they came towards me again.
It would be far too long and, above all, too countrified. There would be no light at all, not even electricity. And the dogs, and you don't know who else is out and about at night.
I assure them again that I am sure I will arrive safely today, or that I will find a suitable place to sleep. But this time I got in.
She names me a pah kilometre away, right up to her house.
First they made sure that I had food and drink and then they stood with me by the road and tried to wave a car towards me. But they didn't allow me to walk any further.
After a neighbour rushed up and asked what the foreigner was doing here, and he heard what I was up to, he started to calculate how long it would take me to get here.
15 min per kilometre, that is 4km per 1h.
That makes Dan 14 hours for the 55 kilometres. We have 18 her, so I arrive at 8am in the morning.
But about a quarter of an hour later, a low loader pulled up. Two young men, who unfortunately speak almost no English, confirmed that they were going to El Nido and would take me with them, fortunately not on the back of the lorry this time.
About an hour later, I climb out of the low loader and arrive at my destination, El Nido.
The plan was to watch the hustle and bustle for a few days and then go to the rural areas. I heard that there is a beach nearby where you can just sleep in a hammock. I was also recommended other places by locals where you can stay undisturbed or enjoy your life.
But on the first morning I'm totally exhausted and can hardly get out of bed. I try a bit of exercise and a long cold shower, but I don't really wake up...
I go out for a walk, the sun certainly helps, and to look for breakfast. But I actually feel worse and worse.
I actually wanted to go for a short hike today, it's not far but it's a steep uphill climb. I'll postpone it until tomorrow. The way I feel, I won't get far today.
At the end of the day, I fall into bed early and completely exhausted, with a bottle of tea.
The next day I realise more clearly what is going on.
I have tonsillitis again. I often have them, but most of the time I hardly have any symptoms and after a few days it's gone again. But not this time. Maybe I've only made it worse with my attempts to wake up. Because I've got pains, I'm afraid of getting a fever and I can't get out of bed.
On the stele of adventure tours to remote places, I lie in bed for the next 5 days. In the centre of a city that was built around tourists and is quite expensive compared to others.
Instead of the long and arduous journey by ferry, I decided to take the plane to get further. Because the next destination is Bohol!
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